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Solar Panel Comparison Calculator

Comparing two panels? Put their specs side by side and see 25-year energy output, cost per watt, lifetime cost per kWh, and which is the better value — accounting for efficiency, price and degradation.

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A Panel A

W
$
%/yr
%

B Panel B

W
$
%/yr
%

3 Conditions

hrs/day
Better lifetime value
by lifetime cost per kWh
Panel A — 25-yr output
Panel B — 25-yr output
Panel A — cost/watt
Panel B — cost/watt
Panel A — lifetime ¢/kWh
Panel B — lifetime ¢/kWh

Estimates only. Cost per kWh spreads the panel price over 25 years of (degrading) output — lower is better value. Real-world choice also depends on warranty, roof space, brand reliability and inverter compatibility.

How the comparison works
Each panel's 25-year output = annual kWh (watts ÷ 1000 × sun hours × 365) summed over 25 years with its degradation rate applied each year.
Cost per watt = price ÷ wattage (lower is cheaper hardware). Lifetime cost per kWh = price ÷ 25-year output — the truest value measure, since a pricier but more efficient, slower-degrading panel can deliver cheaper energy overall. Efficiency mainly matters when roof space is limited (more watts per m²).

How to compare solar panels

When you compare solar panels, it's tempting to fixate on efficiency or wattage alone — but the panel that looks best on a spec sheet isn't always the best value for your roof. The right comparison weighs efficiency, cost per watt, warranty, degradation rate and how much roof space you have. For most homes with adequate roof area, the cheapest path to your target output wins; only when space is tight does paying up for high efficiency pay off. Knowing which situation you're in is the key to a sensible choice.

Choosing between solar panels is where a lot of buyers get steered toward spending more than they need to, because the specification that’s easiest to market — efficiency — is not the specification that matters most for value. A salesperson can always point to a glossier efficiency figure, but whether that figure is worth paying for depends entirely on your roof. The disciplined way to compare is to reduce every panel to a few objective numbers — cost per watt, efficiency, warranty terms and degradation rate — and judge them against your own constraints rather than the brochure’s emphasis. Do that and the right choice usually becomes obvious, and is often not the most expensive panel on the table.

This calculator lets you put competing panels side by side on the metrics that actually matter, rather than the one number a brochure emphasises.

Efficiency: when it matters, when it doesn't

Panel efficiency is the share of sunlight a panel converts to electricity — typically around 19–23% for modern residential panels. Higher efficiency means more watts from the same physical area. That's valuable only when your roof space is limited: if you can't fit enough standard panels to hit your target, higher-efficiency panels let you reach it in less space. But if you have ample roof, lower-efficiency panels that cost less per watt usually deliver the same total output for less money — the extra space costs you nothing. So efficiency is really a proxy for "how much output per square metre," which matters most when square metres are scarce.

Cost per watt: the great equaliser

The most useful single comparison metric is cost per watt (price ÷ rated watts), because it normalises panels of different sizes and powers. A 450 W panel at $135 and a 400 W panel at $120 are both $0.30/W — equivalent value per unit of capacity. Comparing cost per watt cuts through marketing and tells you which panel delivers capacity most cheaply. Combine it with efficiency only when roof space forces the issue.

Warranty and degradation

A cheaper panel that degrades faster or has a weaker warranty may cost more over its life — which is exactly what the lifetime cost-per-kWh figure above captures — so weigh these against the upfront price rather than chasing the lowest sticker.

Other factors

Temperature coefficient (how much output drops as the panel heats up) matters in hot climates; a lower coefficient holds output better on a scorching roof. Build quality, the manufacturer's track record and whether they'll honour a 25-year warranty also count — a warranty is only as good as the company behind it. We deliberately don't name brands; the point is to compare on these objective metrics rather than reputation alone.

The lifetime cost-per-kWh view

The single most honest way to compare panels is to divide each option’s total installed cost by the total energy it will produce over its life — its lifetime cost per kWh. This rolls every factor that matters into one number: a panel’s price, its efficiency (via how much it generates in your space), its degradation rate and its expected lifespan. A premium panel that costs more upfront but degrades slowly and lasts longer can deliver cheaper energy over 25 years than a bargain panel that fades faster. Sticker price and even cost per watt can mislead; lifetime cost per kWh rarely does, which is why the calculator above reports it and why it’s the figure worth anchoring your decision on.

Frequently asked questions

Are more efficient solar panels worth it?

Only when roof space is limited. If you can't fit enough standard panels to meet your needs, high-efficiency panels pay off by fitting more capacity into less area. With ample roof, cheaper panels at a lower cost per watt usually give the same output for less money.

What's the best way to compare solar panel prices?

Use cost per watt — price divided by rated watts — which normalises panels of different sizes. It tells you which delivers capacity most cheaply. Then factor in efficiency (if space-constrained), warranty and degradation for the full picture.

What is a good panel degradation rate?

Around 0.4–0.5% per year or lower is good; it means the panel retains more output over its 25-year life. Premium panels sometimes degrade more slowly, which can justify a higher price through greater lifetime energy production.

Does panel wattage or efficiency matter more?

For total output, what matters is your array's total watts and your sun-hours — wattage and panel count together. Efficiency matters mainly for fitting that capacity into limited space. On a large roof, a cluster of cheaper, lower-efficiency panels can match a few premium ones for less.